By Hanna Raskin for the Seattle Weekly

The restaurant-soon-to-be-formerly-known-as-Chimayo takes its clientele from Tex-Mex to Tuscany.

“We’re kind of hard to find,” confesses Bill Patterson, the pasta virtuoso who offers nightly recitals on Orcas Island at his restaurant, Chimayo.

Patterson is given to understatement— he believes the communion of eater and Dungeness crab shouldn’t be interrupted by anything other than butter—and his assessment represents the square root of the situation. His restaurant is maddeningly hard to find, in this world and its virtual equivalent.

There’s no website for the restaurant, tucked into the rear corner of a shabby indoor arcade that houses a consignment clothing shop and a realtor’s office, nor is there any sort of signage that would magnetize a diner craving lardo and guanciale. A shingle hung above Eastsound’s Main Street boardwalk points to Chimayo, a name Patterson kept when he bought the 9-year-old New Mexican restaurant from local restaurateur Karen Campbel lin 2010.

Patterson didn’t hang onto only the name. He kept the menu intact, continuing to sling the tortillas, chiles, and beans that had acquired a following he was loath to unsettle during a fierce recession. “When you know 90 percent of the people who walk in the door, it’s hard to look them in the eye and say they can’t have what they want,” Patterson says. “It would be perverse.”

To read the full review, go to seattleweekly.com/2011-09-28/food/chimayo-s-orcas-noodling

Thanks to Carol Marcin and Michel Marshall

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